Because there were only four of us, we had to limit our order, which we did with the help of the friendly manager.
The large, airy space on The Peak is designed to resemble an army officers’ mess hall in the days of the British Raj, and there’s a nice alfresco area that will be great when the weather is more temperate.
The menu includes sections of sizzlers from the tandoor, curry, biryani and puddings.
Samosas (HK$78 for two), served with a tangy tamarind chutney, were fat and delicious, with crisp pastry that was well stuffed with nicely seasoned potatoes and peas.
Keema pau (HK$128) – a speciality of executive chef Palash Mitra, which he also serves at sister restaurant New Punjab Club – was a wonderfully rich savoury mess: you’re meant to spoon the simmered spiced minced mutton and chopped boiled egg over the slightly sweet bun, then add some red onion and a squeeze of lime. It’s not easy to eat neatly, but it’s worth the effort.
We love goat, so immediately homed in on the goat seekh kebab (HK$228 (although the meat has since been changed on the menu to beef). The six fat cylinders of spiced minced meat were soft and succulent, their strong flavour tempered by accompaniments of mint chutney and a crunchy, tangy salad of cabbage and carrot.
From the sizzler section of the menu, we tried the soola salmon (HK$278). It used salmon from the Faroe Islands, and was beautiful charred from the tandoor. It was fully cooked, but still moist and tender, and fragrant with the mild spices. Butter chicken (HK$178) was creamy and rich.
We were comped a dish of fish havildar ramu (normally HK$228) – river fish with onions, tomatoes and goraka (also known as Indian tamarind and brindleberry). The sauce looked watery and insipid, but when we spooned it over some rice, we found it had a really nice complex kick of chillies, ginger and other spices.
We felt guilty about not having any vegetables, so ordered the clubwala palak (HK$158). The creamed spinach – mild and soothing – was topped with mixed vegetables of cauliflower, squash, green beans, carrots and peas.
Rajasthan Rifles, Shop G01, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak, tel: 2388 8874. About HK$350 without drinks or the service charge.
Three other newish South Asian restaurants in Hong Kong
This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Indian newcomer will make diners stand to attention
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